bookmark_borderPost-116: Back from, and Impressed by, Jinju and Jeonju

I returned late on Sunday, August 4th, from a trip to Jinju (진주) and Jeonju (전주), cities in southern Korea.

The trip reinforces a view I have held tentatively ever since my August 2009 trip to Daejeon [대전] (in which I snuck into a UN-Youth event that a friend from Europe was attending). Namely: Korea is a lot more pleasant outside the Seoul region. By pleasant, I mostly mean “authentic”, though what that means I cannot say.

I can say that in the southern provinces the food is much better, the people are much nicer, there is less pretentiousness, more willingness to engage foreigners, and an easier pace of life. The ‘southern’ accent, especially in Jinju, is livelier and really on the “sing-song-ey” side. I hadn’t realized how ‘straight’ (or perhaps ‘flat’) the Seoul accent really was, but hearing Korean spoken by natives of Gyeonsgang Province showed it starkly.


I don’t intend in these pages to write a full report of everything I did and saw. I do intend to post some bits and pieces of interest. For example: Jinju’s English signage editor, whoever he is, belongs to that generally-dominant school of thought in the field of English-signage writing in East-Asia that says “Make it off just enough to make native-speakers laugh”.  Example:
Picture

Sign atop the observatory overlooking Jinyang Lake (진양호) in Jinju, Korea: “Stop Smoking and Drinking”

“Stop Smoking and Drinking”
Using the word “stop” sounds really like it’s advice being given by a doctor, or maybe advice from a concerned relative to a middle-aged man for health and/or vaguely-moral reasons. Or maybe a public-service campaign.

These signs are sponsored by the city government. I saw them at other tourist areas, as well.

bookmark_borderPost-115: Back to Jinju (Or, A Second Vacation in Summer 2013, to the Same Place)

Wednesday July 31st
Thursday August 1st
Friday August 2nd

Those are mandatory vacation-days for workers at educational institutes in Gyeonggi Province, which includes me.


Anyway. Taking advantage of this definite off-time, I will go tomorrow, by train, to Jinju, where I was a month ago. Jinju has a kind of bibimbap which is served with raw beef or raw fish, which I am curious to try (진주비빔밥). I was very impressed with Jinju in my last trip. It’s a nice city which lacks the pretension I see as common in the Seoul Megalopolis.

Here is a map of Jinju, which sits near the south coast in “Gyeongnam Province”, ancestral home of President Park.

I will be back to Jinju a third (and perhaps final) time in September 2013, but the circumstances will be very different. More on that later.

I’m told that this Wednesday-Thursday-Friday vacation is mandated by the provincial government. Forcing all institutes to have the same days off prevents typical Korean hyper-competition from…well, for example:

Director of Institute A: “Aha! Institute B is still going to be open next Friday! I know I promised it as a vacation day, but we cannot afford to close! The mothers may see us as being lazy and bring their children to Institute B…Cancel your plans now. It will be a normal work day!” No discussion!!

(The institute that I have the displeasure of currently working at honors neither the contracts they produce nor the law regarding [among other things] vacation days. They lie, promising days off, but refuse to give them, and threaten you if you get too “rude” in asking too much about them. When they do give them, it is strictly when it is convenient for them [a single extraneous Thursday, say]. Looking back over the two most recent foreign-teachers who have ended their time here, M.R. and J.H., both ended up without having received the vacation days the law specifies they must get. I will also not end up with all of mine.)

bookmark_borderPost-113: “Plenty of Work, Just No Money” By Larry L. Dill (Or, the Two Kinds of Work)

[I posted about this in post-112, but buried at the bottom. I want to make it its own entry.]


I came across a website called “New Hope Journal“, subtitled The Poetry, Essays and Personal Journals of Larry L. Dill”. I don’t know who this Larry Dill is, except that he is an American born in 1944. (He graduated from high school in 1962, according to an entry in which he reflected on his 50th class reunion in 2012.)

I was impressed by the following essay by Larry L Dill (originally from 1980) which describes “the two kinds of work”:

Plenty of Work, Just No Money
By Larry L. Dill

(The following essay by Larry L. Dill originally appeared in the Nacogdoches, Texas newspaper, The Sunday Sentinel, in April, 1980. )

Will Rogers probably had more to say about the Great Depression than he did about anything else.  For instance, he said, “People keep saying there’s no work.  Well, let me tell you, there’s plenty of work.  It just don’t pay anything.”

Will had a way of putting things that made them not as bad as they seemed, or at least made them seem not as bad as they were.  Like all good humor, his jokes often hinged on the definition of a word.  Take the word “work,” for example.

To most people work means money.  It’s a simple equation.  I give you so much of my labor and you give me so much of your money.  By that definition the way to get ahead in the world is to make more and more per hour so that less and less work will buy the same things.  The ultimate objective is to get more money than you need so you can turn around and start paying somebody else to do the work you’re supposed to be doing for less than you’ve agreed to do it and with you keeping the difference.  An entrepreneur is somebody who works to perfect this system until he builds a pyramid of workers and managers, positioning himself at the top with very little actual work to do.  Or to put it more fairly, his hourly wage now consisting only of critical management decisions, works out to thousands or tens of thousands of dollars per hour.  That’s been his objective all along.

The name of the system of course is capitalism and it is often confused with the American dream which really involves something altogether different and which leads us to another definition of work which exists more often  only in our minds, hence its association with the ephemeral American dream.  This second concept of work is the one Will Rogers alluded to when he said there’s plenty of work but it doesn’t pay anything.  He was talking about cleaning up our act, getting our minds right, finding our place in the universe, deciding what we want to be when we grow up and providing ourselves with our most basic needs like food and fuel.  When the economic machinery of a capitalist system (or a communist system for that matter) is running smoothly, everybody is busy either building their little pyramid or trudging along as a party to somebody else’s.  Either way we’re all working and we all have money.

Money has for so long now become the only medium of exchange that working directly to solve human needs without the mediation of money has almost disappeared, and with it, unfortunately, much of our humanity, our spirituality, and our compatibility with the earth we all live on.  Thus when there is a money shortage as happened during the 1930’s, there is a “depression” and the psychological implications of that word are as applicable to our mental conditions as the economic implications are to our financial plight.

But it ought not to be that way.  It only is that way because of our alienation from our own real work which is to be able to provide the basic necessities for ourselves, whether we have any money or not.

That’s what the back-to-the-land movement is all about, whether it manifests itself in a rural or in an urban setting.  It is a spiritual movement (and a practical one) based on rediscovering those abilities we all have to work directly to solve our own physical needs.

Gardening is the first step.  Admittedly, it is for most of us largely symbolic.  But it redirects our attention to the earth from which all our sustenance comes and helps us gain perspective on the real meaning of work.  Gathering firewood is a similar antidote for depression both spiritual and economic.  So is foraging for wild berries or used lumber.

I hope we never have another economic adjustment period that is as badly bungled as the Great Depression was.  But all my life the Depression was held up to me as a reminder that there is always something vaguely not quite right about a surging economic prosperity.  Too much easy money too fast.

If we take time now while there is still time to go back to the old definition of work, back to basics, back to enjoying things that don’t require money, that will indeed help eliminate the need for quite so much money, we’ll be a little better prepared for whatever comes, because no matter what comes, there’ll always be plenty of work.

http://www.newhopejournal.com/apr09.html

In my experience, the attitudes displayed in this essay are much, much more common among normal Americans than naked greed. “[T]here is always something vaguely not quite right about a surging economic prosperity.  Too much easy money too fast.”

bookmark_borderPost-114: Climbing a Wall that Simulates a Rock

On Sunday, I went with two people to a small (one-story) “rock-climbing gym” in southern Bucheon.

Participants
(1) C.R. My coworker, who has gotten several mentions on this blog. He regularly rock-climbs (climbs rock?), and sometimes does excursions with the Korean gym people to climb real rocks.
(2) A.W. The brother of my friend Jared. He is visiting Korea and wanted to do some rock-climbing. He has long experience in California with rockclimbing.
(3) Me. It was my first time.

I was surprised to see that this “rock climbing gym” was not only one-story, but was in the basement. “Let’s go rock-climbing in the basement!” How many times has that sentence been spoken!

Below is a picture of A.W. swinging around, with a Korean man looking on, giving pointers (not that A.W. needed them). That Korean man had gotten on the gym computer and put on loud Beatles music not long after he arrived, which lasted for quite a while. I don’t know if he’d normally do that, or if it was our benefit (being foreigners).

Picture

A.W. Rockclimbing in a Gym in Bucheon, Korea [July 2013]

All of those colored things that jut out? They simulate rock-outcroppings in the wild. The idea is to use them to move around the wall. There are various “courses”, varying by difficulty level. My best accomplishment for the day was making it halfway through the easiest course before falling. Falling on that blue padded thing is nothing bad.

We stayed a few hours. It was fun. I went in with no illusions about my ability, and they were confirmed. I couldn’t even get a grip on the slanted walls. I could only do even the simplest of maneuvers on the “flat” 90-degree-angle wall (pictured above).

After the simulated-rock-climbing, we went to nearby Bucheon Station area, at my suggestion, and ate Dakgalbi (닭갈비) [See post-15]. The chicken was served as you see, in three large pieces, which were cut down to size by the waiter at the table as it was all cooking. I’ve never seen it done that way before. Usually it comes already cut up.

Picture

Eating Dakgalbi at “Yu Family Restaurant” (유가네) near Bucheon Station [July 2013]

The meal (including unlimited side dishes), plus beer, left us all satiated and happy for only $11 or so per person.

My forearms were sore. Carrying groceries the short distance home on Monday was noticeably harder than usual.

bookmark_borderPost-112: “Why America Failed” (Morris Berman vs. Larry Dill)

A book called Why America Failed, by somebody named Morris Berman, has been sitting around my bedside for a few weeks now. I occasionally pick it up, but it annoys me. I found it at a Seoul bookstore. It was cheap.

Berman’s book, as I say, is odd and annoying. He imagines that Americans are and always has been, devoted to greed at the expense of everything else. He calls it “hustling”. The USA is a nation of pool-hustlers, or something, so of course it would decline. That’s about his thesis.

This is curious to me. I know a lot of Americans, and I can’t say I know even one who is a “hustler”, a greed-fanatic, or whatever Berman imagines the typical American to be. I think the personality he alludes to may actually exist in today’s East-Asia at a much higher rate than in today’s (or yesterday’s) USA.

The book-jacket says:

In “Why America Failed”. Berman examines the development of American culture from the earliest colonies to the present, shows that the seeds of the nation’s “hustler” culture were sown from the very beginning, and reveals how the very tools that enabled the country’s expansion have become the instruments of its demise.

At the center of Berman’s argument is his assertion that hustling, materialism, and the pursuit of personal gain without regard for its effects on others have been powerful forces in American culture since the Pilgrims landed.

Berman is not talking about a greedy “plutocracy”. He is talking about the character of the American people generally, the character of American culture, from lowest to highest. This is very clear in the book: It’s all these “Americans” who are guilty. Berman says the USA and greed-mania go together like horse and carriage.

I’ll say it again: This book annoys me. I don’t think Berman writes in good faith. He just grinds an enormous axe.

Who is Morris Berman? Professor; Born 1944 in NY; Jewish; now lives in Mexico. His background, as he describes it:

Although I [Morris Berman] was born in America, I am only first generation, my family having emigrated from eastern Europe in 1920. As a child, I was raised in what might be called a European socialist ethic: you help other people. As a result, I lived, in the United States, in a state of perpetual culture shock for nearly six decades.

I think this paragraph tells a lot about Berman, his identity, and thus his motivations. He does not view himself as an American at all, I guess, but rather as (defacto) a stateless long-term resident of the USA. Perhaps he even (somehow) imagines himself “a victim of the USA”.

It’s pretty outrageous, isn’t it, for him to so casually imply that “helping other people” is a un-American trait, only subscribed to be “European[-style] socialists”! (This is in line with the thesis of his book). Later, he writes:

Not helping other people is systemic in the United States; it’s as though it were woven into the very DNA of American citizens.

Berman’s ancestors probably had similar attitudes towards the gentiles that surrounded their villages back in Poland, and vice-versa. “Those people! They are not much above animals! It’s in their blood; they never help anyone.” One of Berman’s ancestors may well have said that about the Poles or Russians he lived around, a century or more ago.

Anyway, this thing about greed. Isn’t it true that the “American Dream” involves making a bunch of money?

Some time ago, I came across a website called “New Hope Journal“, subtitled The Poetry, Essays and Personal Journals of Larry L. Dill”.  I don’t know who this Mr. Dill is, other than (like Berman), he was born in 1944. Dill says he graduated from high school in 1962 (in another an entry, he reflected on his 50th class reunion in 2012).

I will reproduce, below, an essay from that site (originally from 1980) that describes “Americanism” a lot better, I think, than Berman does in Why America Failed:


Plenty of Work, Just No Money
By Larry L. Dill

(The following essay by Larry L. Dill originally appeared in the Nacogdoches, Texas newspaper, The Sunday Sentinel, in April, 1980. )

Will Rogers probably had more to say about the Great Depression than he did about anything else.  For instance, he said, “People keep saying there’s no work.  Well, let me tell you, there’s plenty of work.  It just don’t pay anything.”

Will had a way of putting things that made them not as bad as they seemed, or at least made them seem not as bad as they were.  Like all good humor, his jokes often hinged on the definition of a word.  Take the word “work,” for example.

To most people work means money.  It’s a simple equation.  I give you so much of my labor and you give me so much of your money.  By that definition the way to get ahead in the world is to make more and more per hour so that less and less work will buy the same things.  The ultimate objective is to get more money than you need so you can turn around and start paying somebody else to do the work you’re supposed to be doing for less than you’ve agreed to do it and with you keeping the difference.  An entrepreneur is somebody who works to perfect this system until he builds a pyramid of workers and managers, positioning himself at the top with very little actual work to do.  Or to put it more fairly, his hourly wage now consisting only of critical management decisions, works out to thousands or tens of thousands of dollars per hour.  That’s been his objective all along.

The name of the system of course is capitalism and it is often confused with the American dream which really involves something altogether different and which leads us to another definition of work which exists more often  only in our minds, hence its association with the ephemeral American dream.  This second concept of work is the one Will Rogers alluded to when he said there’s plenty of work but it doesn’t pay anything.  He was talking about cleaning up our act, getting our minds right, finding our place in the universe, deciding what we want to be when we grow up and providing ourselves with our most basic needs like food and fuel.  When the economic machinery of a capitalist system (or a communist system for that matter) is running smoothly, everybody is busy either building their little pyramid or trudging along as a party to somebody else’s.  Either way we’re all working and we all have money.

Money has for so long now become the only medium of exchange that working directly to solve human needs without the mediation of money has almost disappeared, and with it, unfortunately, much of our humanity, our spirituality, and our compatibility with the earth we all live on.  Thus when there is a money shortage as happened during the 1930’s, there is a “depression” and the psychological implications of that word are as applicable to our mental conditions as the economic implications are to our financial plight.

But it ought not to be that way.  It only is that way because of our alienation from our own real work which is to be able to provide the basic necessities for ourselves, whether we have any money or not.

That’s what the back-to-the-land movement is all about, whether it manifests itself in a rural or in an urban setting.  It is a spiritual movement (and a practical one) based on rediscovering those abilities we all have to work directly to solve our own physical needs.

Gardening is the first step.  Admittedly, it is for most of us largely symbolic.  But it redirects our attention to the earth from which all our sustenance comes and helps us gain perspective on the real meaning of work.  Gathering firewood is a similar antidote for depression both spiritual and economic.  So is foraging for wild berries or used lumber.

I hope we never have another economic adjustment period that is as badly bungled as the Great Depression was.  But all my life the Depression was held up to me as a reminder that there is always something vaguely not quite right about a surging economic prosperity.  Too much easy money too fast.

If we take time now while there is still time to go back to the old definition of work, back to basics, back to enjoying things that don’t require money, that indeed help eliminate the need for quite so much money, we’ll be a little better prepared for whatever comes, because no matter what comes, there’ll always be plenty of work.

http://www.newhopejournal.com/apr09.html

Larry Dill is a great writer and a great thinker.

If only bookstores carried a book by him, rather than by Morris Berman. I guess ol’ Larry just didn’t “hustle” enough to get his book taken up by a major publishing house and marketed around the world!

bookmark_borderPost-111: Google Street View and the Prius Vandal

In post-109, I wrote about the July 2013 “Prius vandalism” in Arlington, Virginia. A local-news reporter interviewed one woman whose Prius (hybrid car)’s tires were slashed. She was one of the 15 victims. Here she is:
Picture

Prius owner interviewed on NBC4 after her car’s tires were slashed, July 2013.
(She compares it to “a shark attacking a dolphin.”)
[See video here]

I was curious about the exact spot this interview took place (and by extension where the slashings took place). Visible is only “17th St.” on one street sign. The cross-street is not legible in the video. I tried several “Google Street View” locations before I found it. Here it is:
Picture

Screenshot from “Google Street View” of North 17th and Utah Streets (Arlington, Virginia). Looking West.

I was able to find this exact spot from the other side of the planet! It’d be, actually, much easier to do it online from here than if I’d been physically in Arlington but offline. The world of 2013 is amazing — or scary — or both.

In related news, “Arl-Now” reports that other Priuses were targeted in South Arlington on the same night, and one Arlington County government truck’s tires were also slashed. If the government truck was deliberately targeted, then the case for it being “political” may be strengthened, I guess.


This small affair makes me think of the 1970s novel The Monkey Wrench Gang by radical-environmentalist Edward Abbey. The roles are “reversed” here, of course.

I read Monkey Wrench Gang some time ago in the library. I also read some of Abbey’s diaries. Mr. Abbey was quite a character: I was surprised to see (to contradict what I just wrote) that Abbey was not a “radical environmentalist”. Not in the way we think of that term, of that “archetype”, today. He was a radical, certainly; he was an environmentalist, unquestionably, but… well, his diaries reveal many more (what would today be called) “radical right-wing” stances than “radical left-wing” ones. Abbey is remembered today (if at all) as a “radical environmentalist”. If you read the man’s own words, it’s…just…not…so. / I don’t think Mr. Abbey would like Arlington very much at all.

bookmark_borderPost-110: “It’s In the Nature of the Thing” (Or, a Coworker’s Befuddling Verbosity)

          C.R. [American] : “…Yeah, but that seems sort of in the nature of the thing.”
          E. Kim
[Korean] : “Nature?”
I overheard it in the teachers’ room tonight. They were discussing an upcoming presentation contest. Why didn’t he just say “It’s always like that” or “That’s what they usually do”, or any number of simpler sentences?

The Cast of Characters:

  • E.Kim is a Korean woman, around 30 years old, who is now “Elementary Team Leader” (초등팀장), and thus one of the many, many “managers” at this language-institute. (Elementary means 5th and 6th graders, in this case.) She has been at this language-institute since September 2010. She was one of the rare “Korean employees who is not a manager” when I arrived here, in September 2011. She was promoted sometime in 2012.  She has always been friendly to me, unlike most other Korean teachers. She speaks loudly.
  • C.R. is a White-American male (born in December 1989) who, a lot of the time, seems like a walking stereotype of his native-region of San Francisco. His body has been here since mid-February 2013 (in Korea and at this job), but his mind has never quite made the full cross-over (I think he’d say). He has plans to go to Thailand or Cambodia when his year is up. His goal is to get Scuba instructor certification, he says. Philosophy major.

C.R. is either unable or unwilling to change his register to “talk simple” with the Koreans. His use of difficult vocabulary/phrases, complex sentences, and even slang when speaking with them is puzzling to me. None of them is truly native-level, which would be required to keep up. They don’t understand what the heck he’s talking about half the time. The above exchange was a good example. E.Kim herself is quite good at English, but she didn’t get the point at all. “What’s he talking about ‘nature’ for?” — is what she probably thought at that moment.

C.R. is also the one who used the phrase “I’m down for that”, which I wrote about in post-87, and who disparaged me for using Yahoo Mail (post-2). / On the whole I like him, though, let it be known.


I was correcting essays at the time, and my concentration was broken by C.R.’s and E.Kim’s loud conversation (conversations with E.Kim usually are loud), so instead I jotted down that phrase from C.R., along with this one:

            “….but for the logistics, you might have other considerations, you know, in terms of….”

“Logistics”! “Considerations”! “In terms of”! He also kept using words like “rehearse” instead of “practice”. (E.Kim stood there and nodded along.) All these are unnecessarily-complicated ways to speak, and might impress native-speaker college professors but will cause confusion for non-native-speakers, especially most of this institute’s teachers.

It’s a skill requiring practice, I think, being totally clear (and vividly descriptive) while staying simple and understandable to non-native-speakers. I try. I’m not sure what C.R.’s “deal” is: Is he unable, or unwilling?

bookmark_borderPost-109: Anti-Prius Vandalism in Arlington

I was puzzled to hear that somebody slashed the tires of 15 “Prius” hybrid cars in Arlington, Virginia (my place of birth) overnight recently. Only Priuses were targeted. Local NBC-News reported it.

What could the tire-slasher’s motivation be?

View more videos at: http://nbcwashington.com.


I am puzzled and intrigued about the motivation of a Prius Tire Slasher.

I guess the only “profile” that makes sense is that the perpetrator has a grudge against the type who would buy a Prius (whatever that type is supposed to be). “In the interest of full disclosure”, my mother has a Prius, and has had it for something like six years. I don’t think she’s necessarily a “type”, though. She lives in Arlington, but quite far away from these slashings.

Three other scenarios are plausible:

  1. The act of an insane person.
  2. A dare by a group of kids.
  3. A “false flag” incident to make it look like the kind of thing described in the paragraph above, to drum up support for a perceived cause. This has been known to happen a lot, and national media has been tricked more than a few times, so it’d be foolish to discount the possibility.

These categories are not mutually exclusive. A #3 perpetrator would very probably also be, to some extent, a #1.


The reporter in the video, Pat Collins, gives some of the street names (amid his melodramatic delivery). It seems these crimes happened near North Taylor and 17th streets, near the southern end of zip-code 22207.

PictureZip Code 22207

Some facts about 22207 (according to the American Enterprise Institute):

  • 71%: Percent of resident adults over age 25 had a college degree in 2000, way above the national average.**
  • $150,000 (2010 dollars): The average yearly household income for the entire zip code. The streets reportedly affected are below U.S.-29 (Lee Highway), so the car-owners may be some of the lowest-income in this zip code, perhaps below $100,000. The really rich live further north, well above U.S.-29.***
  • 22207 was the highest-income zip-code in Arlington County in 2000, and probably still is.

** This is compared to about 25% nationwide. And actually, 22207 is not the “most educated” zip code in Arlington. That is 22201 (the core of the Orange Line Metro corridor), where 74% of over-25s held college degrees in 2000. The least-educated zip code in Arlington was 22204 (the heart of “South Arlington”), where only 38% of adults over age-25 held a college degree back in 2000; probably higher today after steady gentrification.

***Relative wealth in the USA is easy to guess from maps: Neat street grids are usually a sign of lower relative wealth, e.g. the section of zip code 22207 south of U.S.-29 (Lee Highway) on the map above, where the tire-slashings took place. The really rich parts of North Arlington are all well north of Lee Highway, where the road pattern tends to lose coherence and disintegrate; twisting, turning, “cul-de-sac-ing”. This is because the rich (in the USA) want to be left alone, I guess. Those neighborhoods are not easily accessible. Interestingly, it’s exactly the opposite in Korea, and I suspect much of the rest of Asia, too. The Gangnam district of Seoul is all laid out in a perfect grid, as are all the “new cities”. If you find twisting and turning roads in Korea, and there are plenty, it means “old and poor”.



bookmark_borderPost-107: More on the Origin of “Philistine”

In Post-106, I wrote about the amazing etymology of the word “philistine” (=uncultured). The word’s origin is amazing to me, anyway.    [Post-106 was updated on July 22nd with my discovery of Matthew Arnold’s first mention of the term. The experts say Arnold popularized the word in English].

“Philistine” was German student slang of the 1700s. It was used by Goethe in the modern-English sense in the late 1700s. It didn’t enter English until Matthew Arnold popularized it in the 1860s.

Here are the occurrences of the word, from 1800-to-Present in the corpus of Google-Books. First, “British English” (books published in Britain) and next “American English” (books published in the USA).

Picture

Frequency of the word “philistine” (including its plural) in BRITISH ENGLISH, 1800 to 1990 [Source]

Picture

Frequency of the word “philistine” (including its plural) in AMERICAN ENGLISH, 1800 to 1990 [Source]

Notes:
(1) These graphs are not the same scale. I don’t think there is a way to manipulate that.
(2) The smoothing is 3 [base-year + three years before and after, i.e. “1880” in the above is actually 1887-1893, averaged).
(3) Google-ngram is capitalization-sensitive. The word “philistine” yields totally different results from “Philistine”. Bibles or other references to the Biblical ethnic group would all be capitalized. Uncapitalized uses, then, mean “uncultured”. However, some early uses may actually have been capitalized, before it became fully-entered English as a lowercase derogatory term for an uncultured person.

Is “Philistine” a British or an American Word?
The term was popularized in English via the efforts of Matthew Arnold, so its origin in English is British. It became more American over time, then went back to being British by the WWII era. I have always seen it as a more British word. Here are the ratios, decade-by-decade:

Frequency of “philistine(s)” in British vs. American English [Google-Books]
1880: British, 2-to-1
1890: Parity, British edge
1900: Parity, American edge
1910: Parity, American edge
1915: American, 2-to-1
1920: Parity, American edge
1930: Parity, American edge
1940: British, 3-to-2
1950: British, 2-to-1
1960: British, 3-to-2
1970: British, 3-to-2
1980: British, 2-to-1

The word “philistine” had a huge jump in popularity in the USA in the year 1916, Google-Ngram shows. It went from .00002% (combined singular/plural) words printed in the USA in 1915 to .000106%, then back down to .000027% in 1917 (you can set smoothing to “0” to see this). This is a jump of 5x in one year. It must have to do with WWI. People were writing about WWI and the USA’s possible involvement in it. Some may have alluded to the Philistines of the Bible, who were sometimes at war with the Israelites (e.g., Goliath was a Philistine). Some of the Biblical uses (capitalized) of the word may have been read as lower-case by Google’s imperfect scanning software. Google’s Ngram software is not perfect. A similar bump happened in WWII in Britain, perhaps for the same reason.

Maybe the better word to look at is “Philistinism“, to get around that problem. Here are the graphs:

Picture

Frequency of the term “Philistinism” in BRITISH ENGLISH. [From here]

Picture

Frequency of the term “Philistinism” in AMERICAN ENGLISH. [From here].

Both terms clearly emerged in the 1860s, after Matthew Arnold’s essay (if setting “smoothing” to zero, all years before 1863 actually get zero values). By the 1880s, American-English used the term “philistinism” more frequently than British-English, and the two languages used “philistinism” about equally for a long time. Americans started giving up on the term in the 1970s/1980s, but it actually increased in popularity in Britain then.

In post-106, I wrote:

A long-forgotten, unknown pastor in a town in late-17th-century Germany ended up (in effect) “coining a word” that emerged in English two centuries later

That pastor is the true originator of the word (again, unintentionally), but if anyone deserves credit for its use in English, it’s Matthew Arnold.

bookmark_borderPost-108: “Countdown”, a Fine Movie From Thailand

This week, there is a film festival going on in Bucheon (where I live as of this writing). It is called Pifan.

I saw a “Thai” movie at Pifan called “Countdown“. It was Thai in that the actors and director are from Thailand, and some Thai language is used in the movie, but mostly it is in English. It revolves around three Thais of university age who live together in New York City who are harassed by a drug dealer named “Jesus” (as in, Hey-zeus).

The movie was quite amazing, and not what I expected. I recommend it. Here is a good review of “Countdown”, from where I stole the above poster. I’d dispute that it was actually a Horror movie. Thriller may be more like it. The Pifan directory listed it as “Comedy”, and it does have a lot of that.

Here is a trailer, which really aims to make you think it’s a straight horror movie (which it isn’t):

Another review, by an American (though I question what kind of American would use the word “flat”).

Actually the movie turned out to be, in the end, —– [If you plan to watch the movie, don’t read the rest of this paragraph]  —————– [spoilers] a Buddhist morality tale. The big plot turn was [spoilers] [spoilers] that the White man turned out to be fluent in Thai (see below). He turned out [spoilers] not to be another murderous maniac, but actually an enforcer of “karma”, or something. The idea may have been that he was some kind of supernatural being. He knew all the dark secrets of the three young Thais, and forced them to confess them to each other and to their parents, and then forced them to recite the five Buddhist Precepts perfectly or he would kill them. It turned out that these attractive young people were all actually “bad”, and the unkempt, dirty maniac White man was the “good” one (or at least one might argue so).
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Some searching on the Internet reveals the White actor in the movie to be David Asavanond, who is three-quarters French and one-quarter Thai (I presume Thai-Chinese). His picture:

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David Asavanond

The three main actors in this movie were Thai-Chinese. (Pachara Chirathivat: Born into one of the the richest Chinese-Thai family, his wiki says. / Jarinporn Jookiat: Obviously Chinese by ancestry. / Patsaya Kreursuwansiri: She really looks like Korean pop star in this movie, i.e. also obviously Chinese). The director looks Chinese. He also looks a lot like “Steven”, a former Korean co-worker at my present workplace. Here he is:
Picture

Nattawut Poonpiriya, Director of “Countdown”

The Chinese totally dominate Thailand, I was told once, to which I nodded along. Okay, fine, they control Thailand. Big deal. I didn’t appreciate what that meant. Chinese are only 15% of the population, and another 25% or so claims partial Chinese ancestry, the Internet says. The majority looks more like this. It really came home, to me, to see a Thai movie that was directed, produced, financed, and acted entirely by Thai-Chinese people.

I think Koreans could relate well to the Thai-Chinese. Example: A big theme of the movie was that studying abroad is (or can be) wrong, dangerous, cowardly, lazy, immoral.  The male lead in the movie, in his early 20s, spent three years in a New York language-school, and had still not been admitted to any college, but rather lavishly spent his dad’s money on partying. A lot of Koreans have this attitude towards Koreans who go abroad to study. My first boss did. Ironically, her daughter (in 10th grade) now studies in Canada! (Double ironically, the boss went with her).


I liked “Countdown”. The bad part was that the only seats available were in the front row. My neck still hurts a little. It may be the only one I get to see, too, as the movies play from 2-10 PM during the week, exactly my work hours.

bookmark_borderPost-106: Where Does the Word ‘Philistine’ Come From? (Answer: You’d Never Guess)

From The Bonfire of the Vanities:

Mrs. Rawthrote leaned still closer, until their faces were barely eight inches apart. She was so close she seemed to have three eyes. “Aubrey Buffing,” she said. Her eyes kept burning into his.

“Aubrey Buffing,” said Sherman lamely. It was really a question.

‘The poet,” said Mrs. Rawthrote. “He’s on the short list for the Nobel Prize. His father was the Duke of Bray.” Her tone said, “How on earth could you not know that?”

“Of course,” said Sherman, feeling that in addition to his other sins he was also a philistine. “The poet.”

I was curious about the origin of the word “philistine”. It means something like “bourgeois” in the way the old Marxists sneeringly used that word, I guess. Right, but what about its origin? I thought it must have something to do with the Bible, but I had no idea what.

It turns out that it doesn’t have much to do with the Bible. In fact, “philistine” has an amazingly-specific history: The term was unintentionally “coined” by a pastor in Germany in 1693 in reaction to a murder. It was popularized in the 1700s as German university slang, and had seeped into highbrow German by the 1800s, and some English-speakers were aware of it. It was first printed in English in 1827. It entered English in-earnest in the 1860s-1870s, via the efforts of Matthew Arnold.

Word History: It has never been good to be a Philistine. In the Bible Samson, Saul, and David helped bring the Philistines into prominence because they were such prominent opponents. Though the Philistines have long since disappeared, their name has lived on in the Hebrew Scriptures. The English name for them, Philistines, which goes back through Late Latin and Greek to Hebrew, is first found in Middle English, where Philistiens, the ancestor of our word, is recorded in a work composed before 1325. Beginning in the 17th century philistine was used as a common noun, usually in the plural, to refer to various groups considered the enemy, such as literary critics. In Germany in the same century it is said that in a memorial at Jena for a student killed in a town-gown quarrel, the minister preached a sermon from the text “Philister über dir Simson! [The Philistines be upon thee, Samson!],” the words of Delilah to Samson after she attempted to render him powerless before his Philistine enemies. From this usage it is said that German students came to use Philister, the German equivalent of Philistine, to denote nonstudents and hence uncultured or materialistic people. Both usages were picked up in English in the early 19th century.         [From The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition copyright ©2000]

Drawing from this and other quick research I’ve done, I can sketch out this timeline:

Timeline of the Evolution of the Word “Philistine”

  • 1693 [Jena, Germany] : A non-student kills a university student in a quarrel.
  • 1693 [Jena, Germany] : The Lutheran pastor at the university delivers a funeral oration which involves a verse from the Bible about “the Philistines” (an ethnic group). The word had no connotation at all of “uncultured” yet.
  • 1690s and On [Jena, Germany]: Students adopt the word Philister (English: philistine) “to denote non-students”.
  • 1700s [German-speaking Europe]: The use of the word “philistine” spreads in German university slang, as a simple shorthand for nonstudents (like “townie” in English), and probably also functions as a kind of shibboleth — this use of “philistine” is esoteric, so only students in-the-know would understand.
  • 1797 [Germany]: Goethe and Schiller, Enlightenment men who valued aesthetics, use the word “philistine” (in the modern sense) for the first time in print. They use the term to derisively describe their critics, “old fashioned rationalists…who had no feeling for contemporary poetry”, a definitively modern usage. [I find this here (“Germany as Model and Monster” by Gisela Argyle, note #40), and here].
  • 1827 [Britain]: Thomas Carlyle uses the word “philistine” for the first time in English, in an essay called “The State of German Literature” [here, note #40].
  • 1863 [Britain]: Writer Matthew Arnold publishes a book on Heinrich Heine in which he also discusses, at length, the German use of the word “philistine”, defining it for readers. [See below]
  • 1870s: [Britain] The word “philistine” starts to increase in frequency in the British-English “corpus” [Ngram]
  • 1880s: [USA] The word “philistine” starts to increase in frequency in the American-English “corpus” [Ngram]
  • 1987: [USA] Author Tom Wolfe uses the word “philistine” in Bonfire of the Vanities (among millions of other uses in the past 150 years).

Here is Matthew Arnold’s 1863 discussion of the word “philistine” in his book on Heine:
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A page from Matthew Arnold’s “Heinrich Heine”. [From here]

“PhilistinismWe have not the expression in English. Perhaps we have not the word because we have so much of the thing”.  He talks about other possible words to apply to the concept of the “philistine”, but rejects them, and concludes, “I think we had much better take the term Philistine itself.”  Which is what happened.

And so it went that “philistine” (“humdrum people, slaves to routine…stupid and oppressive” in Arnold’s definition above) entered English.

One Australian novel I find published in 1892 has a character saying the following: “Puritanism crushed the artistic sense out of the English, and they are only getting it back slowly by a judicious crossing with other peoples who weren’t Puritanised into Philistinism“. Arnold reported that the word didn’t exist in English in 1863, but by the early 1890s it was being casually used like that. In the 1870s and 1880s, it must’ve been born in English.


Conclusion
The English word “philistine” comes from German university-student slang of the 1700s. There is no case for any other origin, since the first usage of the word in English was in an essay about German literature, and the subsequent usage by Arnold is also lifted from a discussion of German writing. How did it come into German — Apparently from a sermon delivered in 1693, after a murder. Imagine, if that nonstudent in Jena, whoever he was, had not killed that Jena student 320 years ago, we would not have the word “philistine” in English today.

A long-forgotten, unknown pastor in a town in late-17th-century Germany ended up (in effect) “coining a word” that emerged in English two centuries later. I wonder how many other words have such narrow starting points. The most wildly-successful recent word-coiner must be whoever first used “Okay” (which most authorities now believe, I’m told, comes from 1820s or 1830s New England. “Okay” is now a word in almost every language of the world.


Update, July 23: A follow-up post to this is Post-107, “More on the Origin of the Word ‘Philistine’

bookmark_borderPost-105: “AFN The Eagle, Serving America’s Best!” (Or, America on Korean FM Radio)

In 2011, 2012, and 2013, while living in Korea, I’ve occasionally listened to 102.7 FM, broadcasting from Yongsan Army Garrison in Seoul. It is the radio station of the USA’s “Armed Forces Network” (which is always called by its acronym, “AFN”). They call it “The Eagle”. The slogan you often hear the DJs repeat: “AFN, ‘The Eagle’: Serving America’s Best”.

“DJ” Andrew Branstad
How many times have I heard this, smoothly-delivered from the main DJ:

This is AFN “The Eagle”, serving America’s best! I’m Sergeant Andrew Branstad with you here on……

Branstad is the name of some of my relatives in Iowa. A search shows that this Andrew Branstad is from Mason City, Iowa [Video] [Interview], so, for all I know, he is a relative of mine. As far as I know, the Branstads to whom I’m related are distant relatives of Iowa’s governor.

I think Andrew Branstad is quite a good DJ, the equal of any civilian one in the USA. I’ve been listening to him for nearly two years now. I enjoy listening when he’s “on the air”, even though I’m not the intended audience at all.

America on the Korean FM Dial
The AFN radio station out of Yongsan is enjoyable, well-executed, and professional, given the small target-audience of a few thousand (tens of thousands?) of Americans attached to the U.S. military around Seoul. You’d have no idea that “The Eagle” was in Korea, 98% of the time. My impression is that U.S. Soldiers generally don’t notice Korea. There is seldom any mention of Korea at all on AFN, for example, so it’s no wonder. Relatedly, I notice that the Army people all pronounce “Yongsan”, the base in Seoul, “wrong”. It’s supposed to be “Yohng-sahn” (용산). The Army people say “Young-saen” (“영새언”) or occasionally Yahng-saen” (“양새언”), depending on their accents. (Maybe some are aware they’re saying it wrong, but would think it pretentious to try to imitate the true Korean pronunciation.)

Music
During most of the day, there is no DJ, and top-40 pop music is played. A recorded “Today’s best hits, on AFN”  is the tagline. which is followed immediately by top-40 U.S. music. Every now and then, there are also songs I recognize from the 2000s and 1990s. Somebody at the helm there really loves the 1991 song “Life is a Highway“. Maybe Branstad himself! He’d be about the right age [b. circa 1979] for it to be a youth-nostalgia thing for him (and a befitting song for youth-nostalgia it is). I’ve heard that song many times at all hours of the day on 102.7 FM, “The Eagle”.

Simulcasts; Morning Show at Bedtime
AFN “The Eagle” also sometimes does “simulcasts” of programs from the USA, involving some local U.S. DJs I’d never heard of, playing more top-40 music (one being somebody named Dave Perry, who I often end up hearing, and who has a pretty great radio voice). The main simulcast program I hear is called “Kid Kraddick in the Morning“. It’s on when I get home from work, 10 PM Korea time. Sometimes I listen. Listening into an American “morning-show” at 10 PM in Korea is pretty neat. Once, I was amused to turn it on and hear Psy being interviewed, in English, by the “Kid Kraddick” cast. Psy sounded sleepy, and didn’t sound very fluent in English at the moment.

Totally Irrelevant to Me
I was once on Yongsan Garrison. My retired-Air-Force uncle brought me on while he was here for a week. Yongsan is an amazing place, a true American “colony”. Listening to AFN, I sometimes feel like I’m in the U.S. Army in Korea. The latter is especially true from the “commercials”, which are entirely informational, Army-oriented public-service announcements. Some are on how to avoid getting into trouble, others are info on events upcoming at Yongsan.

All of that is totally irrelevant to me, but then sometimes the least relevant is the most fascinating. Just ask any of my students: Rule #1 for many classes: “Anything off-topic is highly entertaining”!

bookmark_borderPost-104: Gettysburg 150th — Reading, Watching, Walking

We’re now past the 150th anniversary of the dramatic Battle of Gettysburg (July 1-3).

I’ve had the ambition for several years to walk from the northern suburbs of Washington, DC to Gettysburg, retracing the footsteps of the army. I attempted this in 2011, and nearly made it all the way. I didn’t have enough time.

I planned to do it in July 2013, the actual 150th, and even made tentative plans to do so with my friend Jonathan S., but alas I was in Korea at the time.  (He’s been having a hard time recently, a kind of frustration about being low on the chain in the post-2008 economy, flailing around and not getting ahead. I know more than a few people in that position.)

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Colonel Chamberlain leading the 20th Maine’s bayonet charge at Little Round Top, Gettysburg


That reminds me. Somebody has posted the extended-version of the 1993 film “Gettysburg” onto Youtube. It’s been up for several months,, and has 150,000 views as of today. Four and a half hours, total running time.
The charge of the 20th Maine (as in the painting above) is shown from 2:28:00 to 2:33:00 (two hours, twenty-eight minutes). The 20th Maine was at Little Round Top, on the extreme left wing of the Union Army’s defense line. General Lee chose to attack the Round Top hills on July 2nd. If they’d taken the Round Tops (nobody remember, but there is also a “Big Round Top”), the Confederates could have put artillery on them, threatening the rest of the Union line, probably inducing Union retreat, and thus winning the battle. That’s the implication in Killer Angels.

Around the early 1990s, my dad read the now-classic book Killer Angels, an account of the battle. Although written like fiction, it is essentially nonfiction. There were a couple trips to Gettysburg inspired by that book (I guess). I was too young to appreciate the trips, or much remember them. I remember cassette tapes being played. More driving than walking. Maybe the trip was a stop-off on route to Iowa (where my father’s family lived/lives). That seems likely.

Later, in the mid-1990s, in one of the final years of his life, my mother’s father also read the book Killer Angels. This may be an incorrect memory, but I remember him reading it at my aunt’s house in Chester, CT. A memory I am more sure of is that he finished it in one day, from cover to cover. I was amazed at the time. How could anyone finish a book in one day! I thought. It is several hundred pages.

I finally read that book, too, in 2012. I bought it in Korea. I spent all of 2012 in Korea. The author of that book immortalized the 20th Maine Infantry Regiment and its commander, Colonel (later General) Joshua Chamberlain, who was an academic, a professor, before the war, and spoke several languages.

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Related: I wrote in post-103 about Lincoln’s humility displayed in his correspondence with General Grant, along with my amateur social analysis of American personality
virtues

Related: I wrote in post-102 about the man who may well be the worst commander of the U.S. Civil War.

Related: I wrote in post-14 about a ‘relative’ who was killed at the Battle of Shiloh in 1862. I consider him to be the first person bearing my surname to have lived in the USA, and will continue to think so until I see contrary evidence.

bookmark_borderPost-103: When Lincoln Was Wrong (Or, “Sincerity, Simplicity, and Humility Without Servility”)

Lincoln’s Civil War letters, on the 150th anniversary of the writing of each, are being transcribed/published here:

PictureLincoln

I appreciate whoever is doing it.

An entry on July 13th, 2013 reproduces a letter by Lincoln to General Grant of July 13th, 1863, exactly 150 years earlier. Lincoln congratulates Grant on his victory in the then-recently-ended Vicksburg campaign. (Grant’s siege of Vicksburg ended July 4th, when the Confederate general surrendered — 30,000 Confederates became prisoners in a day. An entire Confederate field army, the Army of Mississippi, gone.) Lincoln admits he was wrong and Grant was right about strategy.

[To] Major General Grant               Executive Mansion,
My dear General                              Washington, July 13, 1863.
I do not remember that you and I ever met personally. I write this now as a grateful acknowledgment for the almost inestimable service you have done the country. […..] I thought you should go down the river and join Gen. Banks; and when you turned Northward East of the Big Black, I feared it was a mistake. I now wish to make the personal acknowledgment that you were right, and I was wrong.
            Yours very truly
            A. LINCOLN

This warm/humble style is characteristic of Lincoln. What other 19th-century leader would’ve written such a letter?

There is, I think, something very American (old American) about Lincoln’s attitude there. I don’t have the verbal ability to concisely say what I mean, so I will lift the words of R.W. Emerson: “Sincerity, simplicity, and humility without servility.” These were American “folk-virtues”, historically. (This personality-archetype has allowed Europeans these past few centuries to think of Americans as unsophisticated rubes). George Washington was like that. Robert E Lee was like that. A lot of now-living Americans are still like that, but people like that are not “cool” anymore. My father’s extended family is pretty much like that, I think. My mother’s side, too, but less so.

This reminds me of an observation someone had at the informal soccer games I’ve been at in Korea. Most players are British and some are North-American. You often hear the Americans play-down their own abilities (“I’m not very good”…), while the British/Irish players never do. There’s not much difference in actual ability between us all, but you’d think North-Americans were far inferior from attitudes on display. That’s “American humility” at work, maybe.

Humility is “big” in East-Asia, too, of course. After over three years here now, though, it’s my impression that, when push comes to shove, East-Asian humility is usually (1) not sincere, and (2) actually about servility, not humility. I mean, among East-Asians, a person may appear humble or accomodating, but in fact is most often “submitting” because his/her social position demands it (e.g. an employee submitting to the boss), not because he/she is an independent actor in the world who is independently humble. Insincerity also dominates social interactions here, more than I’ve ever seen among my own people. It’s that “face” thing, I guess.

Anyway, no social pressure impelled Lincoln to write to Grant saying “you were right and I was wrong”. No social pressure impelled him, after news of the surrender at Appomattox arrived, ending the war, to order the White House band to play “Dixie” — which he did, amazingly.


Related: I wrote in post-102 about the man who may well be the worst commander of the U.S. Civil War.

Related: I wrote in post-14 about a ‘relative’ who was killed at the Battle of Shiloh in 1862. I consider him to be the first person bearing my surname to have lived in the USA, and will continue to think so until I see contrary evidence.

bookmark_borderPost-102: “Incapacity, Amounting to Almost Imbecility” (Or, the Worst Civil War General)

I nominate Dixon Miles (1804-1862), U.S. Army, for the title

“Worst Commander of the U.S. Civil War”. Here’s why:
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During the First Battle of Bull Run, [Dixon Miles’ Union] division was in reserve […] [Miles] was accused by Brig. Gen. Richardson of being drunk during the battle. A court of inquiry validated this accusation. [from Wiki]

Being drunk during one major battle could actually be forgiven, really, if done once. What he did in 1862 clinches it.

After an eight-month leave of absence, [Dixon Miles] was reassigned to what should have been a quieter post. In March 1862 he commanded a brigade that defended the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad and, in September 1862 he was given command of the Federal arsenal at Harpers Ferry.

Harpers Ferry (which, for some reason, does not have a possessive apostrophe in its official name) in 1862 was a very strategic town, west of Washington, and right in Robert E. Lee’s avenue of invasion during the Antietam campaign.

Dixon Miles bungled the defense, assigning soldiers to defend completely the wrong places. Stonewall Jackson was able to march in and quickly surround the city with almost no fighting. Jackson took the heights above the town. The Confederates began to bombard Harpers Ferry from those heights. Commander Dixon Miles was drunk again (his subordinates reported). He eagerly decided to surrender without further ado. However:

Before the white flag could be raised, [Miles] was struck in the left leg by an exploding shell, mortally wounding him. Some of his men accused him of being drunk on duty again, and were so thoroughly disgusted by his inept defense that it was said to be difficult to find a man to carry him to the hospital. Miles died the next day and is buried in St. James Episcopal Church Cemetery in Monkton, Maryland. Some historians have concluded that Miles was struck by artillery deliberately fired by his own men, but there is no conclusive proof.

The resulting surrender of 12,419 men was the largest number of U.S. soldiers surrendered until the Battle of Corregidor in World War II. The court of inquiry into the surrender denounced Miles for “incapacity, amounting to almost imbecility.”

PictureDixon Miles (1804-62)

In summary, Dixon Miles :
(1) commanded troops during two battles,
(2) was probably drunk at both battles;
(3) saw no action at one of his battles (Bull Run),
(4) bungled the defense of Harpers Ferry so bad that he surrendered 12,000 men without a fight;
(5) may have been killed by his own men, in anger over his drunken bumbling.


PictureT.J. “Stonewall” Jackson (1823-63)
(From here)

Stonewall Jackson has a mythical reputation as “invincible on the battlefield”. Looking great is easier if you face “imbecilic” (in the U.S. government’s words) opponents.

Contrasting totally with Miles, Jackson was a teetotaler.

Jackson was famously serious, stern Presbyterian; he was a fanatic driven by the desire to win, and he won just about all the battles he led, usually decisively and often lopsidedly (like Harpers Ferry). The Confederate cause was obviously right, Jackson’s men must’ve thought, if it produced men like Jackson; the Union cause was obviously wrong, the same men (and others) must’ve thought, if the Union cause produced such inept, indecisive generals.



People all react to their leaders. It’s true in the workplace, isn’t it. If a manager is inept, lazy, passive-aggressive, narrow-minded, secretive, selfish, corrupt, grudge-nursing, arrogant, threatening, and cares more about playing “office politics” than actually making the project successful, then — for God’s sake! — any subordinate would end up with low morale. (Note: That string of adjectives, sadly, describes some of my own managers at the language-institute at which I work, particularly the one I’ve elsewhere here called “Stringbean”.

Note also that the wonjang (director) here been seemingly-hungover during business hours, more than a few times. He is always a little surly, but on some days he’s a bit surlier and his hair is unkempt, and he hasn’t shaved, which leads the the wide suspicion of a hangover. I have no way to really confirm this, because he never graces me with the pleasure of conversation. In fact, after two years, I am sure he doesn’t even know my name.

This wonjang would’ve gotten along well with Dixon Miles, anyway.

bookmark_borderPost-101: Ilsan’s Suburbs (Or, Heavy is the Head that Wears the Crown)

Early on Sunday, I took a picture of Ilsan’s “suburbs”. (Ilsan is a city northwest of Seoul. I lived there for one year and was back visiting.) Here is the view I had from the tenth floor:
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East-Central Ilsan, looking east
Most of Ilsan’s residents, along with most residents of the Seoul Megalopolis generally, live in buildings similar to those in the background (monolithic highrise apartments). A select few in Ilsan live in actual detached/single-family houses, similar to those in the foreground below (I think these foreground buildings are mixed-use, and may even be multi-family. I assure you that nearby are thousands of smallish single-family houses, though). They have no yard space. A few feet separate the wall of one house from the wall of the next. Most are relatively small by U.S. standards, and sell for $1 million, I’m told.

In the center-left of the photo above is a building with a South-Korean flag on one side and a U.S. flag on the other. It is the “Korea Christian International School” (한국기독국제학교), which I’d never heard of till now. The existence of such a school is testament to the strength of Christianity in Ilsan, and in South-Korea generally. Actually, it’s hard for me to imagine a “Korea Buddhist International School” in Ilsan. If there were one, it wouldn’t be so conspicuous or “self-confident”, I’d imagine. Buddhism is so lethargic/undynamic in Ilsan as to be near invisible, in my experience.

Here’s a (3D model) view from near the same spot, but looking west. You can see a lot of small single-family homes.

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3D Model of central Ilsan from Naver Maps.
Single-family houses in the foreground, “downtown” in the center, apartments on the right, the Han River far in the background
A few minutes’ walk from even the remotest of these “suburban houses” allows a resident to find a bus-stop to elsewhere in Ilsan or to Seoul, or to a train station to enter the region’s huge urban rail network. Korea thus has nothing like American suburbs, of course. Some people call Ilsan itself a “suburb”, which is mostly wrong. It may be a bedroom community for Seoul to an extent, but it’s not a suburb at all in the American sense. It’s proper designation is “new city” (신도시). The “new cities” in South Korea are just transplants (onto former farmland) of high-end Seoul, just better-planned and better laid-out.

In my first year in Korea, when I lived in Ilsan, I had a student named Lee H.J., who lived in one of those houses in central Ilsan, I somehow learned. Many of the students were a bit spoiled, but H.J. was particularly bad. She was smart and worked pretty hard, but her attitude was persistently gloomy and usually hostile. She complained almost every day. I started to realize that “heavy is the head that wears the crown”. Being brought up wealthy in South Korea must seem like nothing but a punishment. She went to four or five after-school institutes, and was the object of constant pressure from her mom. If she were poorer, she wouldn’t have been so burdened by all that extra studying.

Lee H.J. (who was in 6th and 7th grade when I taught her in 2009-2010) provided me with a memorable line I’ve pondered ever since. She wrote, “Today is only tomorrow’s yesterday.” She wrote it in an essay. What does it mean? It seems like it could/should have some deep meaning, but when I try to grab onto that meaning, it always conceptually slips through my fingers, like trying to grab onto a cloud.

bookmark_borderPost-100: Ilsan Bus Stop in the Rain, “An Amateur Sociological Analysis”

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Bus stop in Ilsan, July 8th 2013

I snapped the above picture while waiting for bus #1001 in Ilsan on Sunday afternoon. I was returning to Bucheon after visiting at the hospital (see post-99).

It’s a seemingly-humdrum scene, but there’s actually several interesting things going on here.

(1) Teenagers Riding Public Buses. The two umbrella-clutching figures you see are high-school girls, wearing backpacks which are obviously weighted-down by books inside. This was 3 PM on a Sunday. These being Ilsan kids (Ilsan is on the wealthy side), they are no doubt going to one of their many hagwon (supplemental education institutes, such as the one I work at, as of this writing). In the USA, teenagers generally don’t ride public buses, of course. Certainly not well-off teenagers! “It’s dangerous”. I’ve seen elementary-school-age Korean children riding the public buses alone — inconceivable in the USA I know. In Korea, nobody is scared of being attacked on the bus; nobody would think twice about “letting a kid ride the bus alone”. I like the utter safety of general Korean public life, and lament that the USA I knew growing up was not…quite…like…that. That’s the way a society should be.

(2) Monsoon. Look at the sky. All of Sunday looked about like that. And all of Monday, and some of Tuesday….. Korea’s monsoon rains are not usually very vicious, but they are certainly persistently-depressing. There was no break in the total cloud-cover all day, with occasional rain. In my place of birth in Virginia, summer rains tend to be short and intense, then sunny. I am not used to a blotted-out sun for days on end. / Actually, on Sunday I had no umbrella, myself. A young man whose father was in the hospital kindly gave me an extra as I was leaving.

(3) GPS-Based Bus Arrival Notification. At the top of the picture you can see a device that says “1001 — 11분 일산서구청”. “1001” is the bus running from Ilsan to Bucheon’s Sang-Dong neighborhood (near where I live and work), taking about thirty minutes on a good day. The cost is about $2.00. The sign informs the bus rider that the bus is set to arrive in eleven minutes (11분), and it gives the bus’ current location (“일산서구청“, West-Ilsan City Hall). The buses in the Seoul metro area are now all, AFAIK, being tracked with GPS. This is highly useful.

(4) Dieting Advertisement. Points #1, #2, and #3 above are all aspects of Korean culture that are different from what we’re (I’m) used to in the USA. Some things, though, just cross all cultural boundaries: The advertisement on the bus shelter claims that you can lose 10 kilograms (22 pounds) in four weeks!, using their special dieting method.

Picture

Click to Enlarge
Note also the use of English — “Before” and “After”.

There are a couple of other things I could comment on in just this humdrum little photo. The wide sidewalks, the very-short shorts of the high-school girl (which — no joke — may have gotten her mother, at that age in the ’70s, into trouble with the police), the greenery (an extension of the amazing urban park anchored on Jeongbal Hill in the middle of Ilsan).

The cliche that a picture is worth a thousand words is proven again.


bookmark_borderPost-99: Vacation a Success; Surgeries a Success

I spent much of the time since my last post (June 29th) in the far south of Korea. I hope to write about the trip later. It didn’t turn out the way I’d planned, but it was still enjoyable. Sometimes plans are meant to be broken, anyway.

Now I am back near Seoul, back “home” (my Sept. 2011 to Sept. 2013 home).

In the week I was “AFK” (Away From this Keyboard), two people underwent surgeries, as I mentioned in post-98. Both are fine. My sister is now out of the hospital, six days after surgery. My friend Jared is still recovering in the hospital, four days after surgery, but is doing remarkably well.

I visited Jared in the hospital Saturday into Sunday. The visit was a little surreal. The hospital-area I was in (a place for recovering patients to recuperate) felt like part airport and part prison. It is a tight-running ship, though, and a highly-modern facility, the equivalent to the best in the world, I think — not that I know much about hospitals. It also has some great views, from the 10th floor, of Ilsan.

At the hospital, I saw his boss-friend Curt (whom I’d met once before) and his friend Grace (whom I’d heard about many times, but not met). Grace is amazing: She lived in Korea till age 10, then moved to Canada till age 24, and then returned to Korea for the past decade or so. She is the rare example of a Korean who is, from my judgement after interacting with her for five hours on Saturday, absolutely-totally native-level fluent in both languages.

Jared’s surgery made him unable to talk very well. He wrote messages on paper, usually, including many jokes. One was unintentional. Let me relate it here. The subject of Jared’s desktop computer came up. He’d gotten it at Costco. I said “It was really cheap, wasn’t it?” He started writing his answer on his notepad, with Grace and I looking on. I had developed the habit of reading each word as he wrote it. “I — got — it — with — pants.”  Pants? He quickly scribbled something again. Oh! It was actually p-o-i-n-t-s. He got the computer with points (i.e., buy enough and you get something free). The ‘o’ and ‘i’ blended together in the poorly-lit room. The ridiculousness of getting a desktop computer “with pants” (buy a pair of pants, get a computer free!) made us laugh, Jared included.

bookmark_borderPost-96: Veterans’ Bus in Seoul

Coming back from Osan on Sunday, we were dropped off at Seoul Express Bus Terminal, which is near Gangnam. From there, I got on the subway and headed home.

Outside the bus station, I saw this:

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Bus seen at Seoul Express Bus Terminal, June 24th, 2013. “Welcome UN Korean War Veterans”

June 25th, the anniversary day of the start of the war, was only two days away.

The English on the banner is: “Welcome UN Korean War Veterans”
The Korean on the banner is: “환영 — 6-25전쟁 UN참전용사 방한”

(1) 환영: Welcome
(2) 6-25전쟁 (육이오전쟁): “Six-Two-Five War”. [This is the name most commonly used in South Korea for this war, because it began on June 25th. I’ve always thought that to be a strange way to name a war, after it’s starting date. I can’t think of an example of that from Western history. They also use the term “Korean War”, but less commonly. Every Korean knows what “6-25” means, but most 7th-12th grade students don’t know that it was June 25th of 1950!]
(3) UN참전: Participation in the War by the United Nations [UN]
(4) 용사: Brave Men; Heroes
(5) 방한: Visit (for Pleasure?) to Korea


It’s unclear who was supposed to be riding that bus pictured above, but on Tuesday (June 25th), I did see this:
I noticed that the caption writer wrongly wrote “North Korea began the war 60 years ago today”. Actually, it was 63 years ago today, on June 25th, 1950. This is June 25th, 2013. The very same newspaper reported, the day before, that 37% of adults and 53% of teenagers did not know which year the war began. The day after, a member of that 37% must’ve been at the editor’s desk!

Something interesting from the Korean language:

               참전: Participation in the(/a) War
               용사: Brave Men; Heroes

Combining those two words, i.e, “참전 용사” (cham-juhn-yong-sa) equals the word “veteran(s)”, I see from my (still-working) cell-phone dictionary. It’s not just a “participating in a war” thing, but a “bravery”/”heroic” component. This is not the case in English.

Etymology of the word “veteran” in English:1495–1505;  < Latin veterānus  mature, experienced.”

I wonder what the word in English for “participant in a former war” was before somebody grabbed the Latin word.

bookmark_borderPost-95: “All Cooks From Mexico” (Or, Dipping a Toe into the World of Off-Base Military Life in Korea)

I unexpectedly wound up at a Mexican restaurant near Osan Air Force Base Sunday, after I met my friend Jared.

The restaurant has an actual Mexican manager and actual Mexicans doing the cooking, which is something I’ve otherwise never seen or heard of in Korea (i.e., despite the recent rise in the popularity of Mexican food, managers and cooks everywhere else are Korean). On the advertisement for the place, near the entrance, they boast about it:

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A Mexican Restaurant in Osan, South Korea
Slogan: “Authentic Mexican Food / All Cooks From Mexico”

We got there in the automobile of a fascinating man named Seungbae, Jared’s friend. Osan is something approaching an hour’s drive south of central-Seoul. This was, I do believe, my longest-ever car ride in Korea.

Both Seungbae and Jared speak Spanish well. Seungbae studied it in university. Jared lived in Mexico for two years, and is fluent. He even taught Spanish in the USA. The two of them had been to this restaurant before. Seungbae introduced Jared to it in 2010, from whom I’d listened back then, in awe, about the “real Mexican cooks”.

Seungbae graciously paid for the meal. He had an ulterior motive for the trip, though: He tried, at length, to enlist the support of the Mexican manager for his latest money-making venture, the details of which I zoned-out on a little bit. All I know for sure is that it’s connected in some way with Mexico, and he needs a Mexican contact. The manager was a kindly, portly, soft-spoken dark-skinned man (who I’d have believed were Arab, if he’d claimed to be). He was born in Mexico but he’s lived in both the USA and Mexico at various times. He seemed to lean more “American” than “Mexican”. (Then again, I’ve never been to Mexico, never even to Texas, and hardly ever to California, so what do I know.) He spoke English well, but only fully-relaxed when Seungbae and Jared addressed him in Spanish.

PictureForeigners attached to the U.S. military in the “Ville”
outside Osan Air Base, near clothes shops

This Mexican restaurant exists on a promenade adjacent to Osan Air Force Base, in which foreigners easily outnumber Koreans. What kind of foreigners? Some were obviously soldiers/airmen (judging by the haircuts) or their dependents, some were obvious military contractors, but a large share of those I saw were “hangers-on”, like this Mexican manager and his cooks. Many were (to me) of really indeterminate origin. Foreign businesses, and business catering to foreigners, define this street. It is a world unto its own, nothing like the “other Korea” I live/work in.

Jared (who was once in the U.S. Army in Korea) says these areas are called “the Ville” by soldiers. (The now-trendy, but once infamous Itaewon neighborhood, in central Seoul, started out the same, as Yongsan Army Base’s “Ville”, but is now something else entirely. The Itaewon of the 2010s has a Muslim atmosphere on the whole, actually, but that’s another story).

In the leisurely two hours or so we were in the Mexican restaurant, I saw perhaps ten groups of foreigners in and out, versus a single pair of Koreans, women in their 20s. The foreigners all seemed attached to the U.S. Military, either as enlisted men/women or contractors.


PictureA man of indeterminate origin rides a
“lowrider” motorcycle through
the “Ville” outside Osan Air Base
[June 2013]

This Mexican restaurant at which we ate would be wildly out of place in Korea anywhere except “Ville” areas, or possibly Itaewon (which, again, started as a “Ville”), it seems to me. Whether it would be “not out of place in Mexico” is less clear. Jared, who’s spent a good while in both Southern-California and Mexico, said it was much more like a California-Mexican place that a Mexican-Mexican place. I guess I could’ve surmised that. The place did have a recognizably “American” feel, but certainly was not-quite-as-American as on-base restaurants. I’ve been fortunate enough to have eaten two or three times “on base”, via my uncle (who gets sent to Korea as a contractor sometimes) and my cousin-in-law (who was at Kunsan Air Base last year). I tell you, earnestly, that to walk onto a U.S. Military base in the Republic of Korea is to walk into the USA itself.

At Jared’s suggestion, I drank horchata, a smooth and sweet rice-based drink, which I must confess to have never even heard of before that day. This horchata easily beats the Korean rice-based drinks I’ve tried, soju and Sikyhye.  Seungbae got a Margarita at the recommendation of the manager. Here is a picture of the food, before mine arrived. Jared (across the table) has tacos. I don’t remember what Seungbae got, but it looks good. In Jared’s hand is a horchata. I got one, too,
Picture

Mexican Food in Osan

One reminder that this is Korea was the bell on the side of the table. Very useful. I’ve rarely seen any in the USA.
One reminder that this place serves non-Koreans almost entirely: No kimchi at all was served.

The meal was good; seeing the Osan “Ville” was fascinating, riding such a distance in a car in Korea was novel, and the conversation provided by Seungbae (who spoke at length about Korean history and any other topic that came up) and Jared (who always has something interesting to talk about) was pleasant.

It was a good trip. It reminded me of being in the USA.